By Application

Perfect Fit? Perfect!

Thursday, March 1st, 2012

February turned out to be the ‘alter your oven’ month.

A customer from FL called in after many attempts to find a replacement thermostat switch for his oven.  The old switch was 1/2” but he had such trouble locating them that he wasn’t dissuaded by our 3/4” discs. (FYI: 1/2”s are coming soon, mid April 2012!!)  The trouble, of course was not the temp range or the voltage, simply the mounting profile.  Easy fix!

He ordered a 2511F036-121 standard thermal switch.  The thin profile of the bracket gave him the versatility needed.  One end screwed into the existing mounting hole, the other was secured using a hose clamp.  And, as expected, the humble switch is doing its job well protecting his oven’s key components.

Three cheers for flexibility and ingenuity!

Thermal switch specs: #2511F036-121 (Close 140°F, Open 110°F) – Available online

KitchenAid oven modification

Tuesday, February 7th, 2012

Sometimes you have a product that is really nice, except for one thing ________.  So some tweaking is in order.

That was the situation for Senasys customer Ron Long and some 27” Kitchen Aid double ovens (models: KEBS277DBL4, KEBS277DWH4, KEBS277DAL4).  Even though his “oven has great features and is otherwise wonderful,” he had trouble with the electronics area overheating.  During the cleaning cycle this area tended to overheat and blow the thermal fuse- necessitating a service call.  Other parts were also negatively affected by the high heat.  Part of the problem seemed to be that the cooling fan shut off when the oven heat was turned off, rather than when it had cooled sufficiently.  What did Ron do to fix it?

“What I did was configure a quiet (most important) bathroom vent fan in the cabinet above the oven.  I then mounted the thermal switch inside the electronics area on the metal surface of the upper cooling fan duct.  I figured this area was the best place to sense the temperature that was affecting the electronics.  I used a power terminal (L1) in the oven to supply the power (115v AC) and ran this through the thermal switch, to the fan and back to the the oven’s neutral.  The neutral is on the oven side of the thermal fuse that kept blowing.   I am sure the fuse is for fire protection so I made sure the fan was wired on the protected side of the thermal fuse.  I modified the metal housing by bending a portion of the  sloped back up to allow access for the cooling to reach the electronics.  The vent fan blows cool air into the oven box that surrounds the oven.  The vent fan can be mounted anywhere that is convenient with the air being ducted to the oven box.  This adaption has worked great and the electronics stay cooling under all situations.  One thing that surprised me was that the blower would sometimes come on about 20 minutes after the oven was turned off.

“I do not believe I violated any safety issues.  After I started having problems I read a lot of angry customer blogs on several web sites so I decided a little experimenting was in order.  I am sure I have over built but the parts were cheap and handy.  Most of the time the fan does not run.   It appears that self cleaning will always cause the fan to start about 20 minutes after the clean cycle starts and it continues to run for about 20 minutes after it ends.”

Nice fix, thanks for telling us about it!

Thermal switch specs: #2511F003-201 (Close 120°F min, Open 105°F max)

RV Water Bay Heater

Thursday, January 19th, 2012

As long as we’re talking RV’s lets share this one with you.  Garry N replaced the thermal switch on the water bay heater of his motorhome with a more robust one made by, you guessed it- Senasys.  Here’s what he told us about it:

“We used your firm’s thermal switch to replace the one installed by the factory on our 2006 motorhome.  After a good deal of research, we determined the folowing:

1. The thermal switches installed by [the motorhome manufacturer] are rated for residential/commercial purposes, not for motorhomes.  This often results in early failure.  Many motorhome couples report that they need to replace their switches every year, when using their motorhomes year-round.

2. The thermal switch in our motorhome was rated to turn on our water bay heater at 25 degrees fahrenheit.  Since this is below freezing, it did not protect our water bay.  The replacement switch we purchased from your firm is rated to turn on at 35 degrees.  After reading the motorhome manufacturer’s manual, we belive the old switch was a manufacturer’s mistake–their manual indicated our old switch should have activated somewhere between 32 and 40 degrees (36 ± 4 degrees).

3. We selected your firm’s product because the specifications at your website indicated your switch is built more durably.

So far, we have been very pleased with the performance of your company’s switch.”

Perusing some RVing blogs, it turns out there are plenty of uses for bi-metal snap disc thermostats in a motorhome.  We look forward to hearing more about it!  Safe Travels!

Thermal switch specs: #2511L003-2132 (Close 35°F min, Open 45°F max)

Cooling Fans for TV Cabinet in RV

Tuesday, January 17th, 2012

Thermal switches used in conjunction with cooling fans are useful in protecting electronics.  R.B. from Baton Rouge, LA  used on of our sealed temperature switches to protect the TV in his motorhome.  He drives a class C motorhome which has a TV located in an overhead cabinet.  “The last TV I put up there had a meltdown,” he says.

After receiving our switch, he “tested the on/off setting to see if your specs were accurate-they were;” a prudent step.  R.B. installed the thermal switch in the case at the top most area of the TV and wired it to auxiliary cooling fans.  The switch turns the fans on at 105°F and off at 95°F.  He reports that “the switch is working as described.”

Thermal Switch (thermostat) specs:  2570F108-665 (Close 105°F, Open 95°F)

 

Solar Powered Flood Lights

Thursday, January 12th, 2012

W.K. of Laramie, WY is using one of our sealed thermal switches to reduce depletion of battery charge at freezing temperatures in a solar lighting system.

Two 10-watt LEDs, mounted from a solar panel, flood the entry of a housing development in Laramie, WY.   At nearly 7200 ft above sea level Laramie faces very cold winter temps, -30°F is not uncommon.    At such low temps the Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery, though not damaged by freezing, will not recharge adequately.

W.K. attached our sealed thermostat switch directly to the battery and wired it in series with one of the LEDs. So when the temperature is below freezing the switch (being open) prevents the second LED from turning on, thereby reducing load on the battery and the probability of battery depletion at night.

His conclusion, “This simple switch increases the reliability of the system.”

Thermal switch specs: 2570F068-640 (Close by 35°F, Open by 25°F)

 

Rocket Stove

Thursday, January 5th, 2012

DIYers you’ll love this homemade “Dual Plane Rocket Stove.”

G.S. of Rolla, MO found the Senasys sealed thermostat switch (2570L211-227) useful for controlling the blower on his homemeade rocket stove.  He says, “[The switch] is performing quite nicely and was very easy to integrate with my system.”

The thermostat switch is mounted to a heat exchanger, which, in turn, is connected to a blower.  When the heated water in the pipes of the exchanger reaches 100°F the switch turns the blower on, and turns it off again when the temperature drops to 85°F.

Click here to see his video of the complete setup.

Heater Sources for Thermostat Control

Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011

We talked to a customer today that is using an Electro-Flex flexible heater with our 2570 bimetal thermostat. It was decided that this sort of data could be valuable for other customers so we’ll be logging that info when we take technical questions from folks. We’ll then update this post to provide links to the various heater manufacturers our customers work with. If you know of other vendors that you’ve had good personal experience with let us know and we’ll add those to the list.

Electro-flex

Flexible Heater for use with Bimetal Thermostat

Modine Type Heater with Aquastat or Bimetal Thermostat

Friday, January 7th, 2011

This time of year we get a lot of requests related to heating systems. Being based in Wisconsin, USA with a current temp of 9ºF we have lots of first hand experience with these issues. :)

A large number of people have Modine type space heaters in garages, sheds etc. Sometimes these us a simple on/off switch for control. On of the downsides of some of these systems is that the fans will run all of the time that the unit is turned on. What can happen is that the unit will run the fan even when the temp is turned low and the heating part isn’t running. Then the fan will be blowing the cold air across the luke warm heat exchanger giving any people in the area a nice cool wind chill effect.

Some times they end up with the opposite effect in that the fans don’t turn on soon enough or they add a booster fan that also runs to get into the far corners of the area being heated. All of these changes can be made with a simple bimetal thermostat for a fairly low cost. Just be sure that if you use the 2570 series switches that you are using less then 15Amps on a 120 or 240VAC system. Also, make sure that you don’t override and self cooling system that prevents the heaters from over heating.

We help a lot of people add a pipe mount switch to these installations to address these issues. Some folks will suggest Aquastats for similar applications however the price point on these is generally in the $60 range.

Custom Bimetal Thermostat Housing

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

This application note covers the use of a 2570 thermostat repackaged for heaver duty applications. A large US based military vehicle company contacted us about a version of our thermostat that they could use in a harsh environment, high temperature application.

They needed the device to be very rugged and robust but based on common commercial products with a long experience of performance in the field and quick availability.

The application was to improve the cold start ability of their approx 500hp diesel engine. They needed the thermostat to trigger a cold start process when the engine oil temperature was near or below freezing. They key requirement was to have the snap thermostat mount in a 1/2 NPT thread hole that they already had on their equipment.

We didn’t have any bimetal thermostats that met their description on our shelf, but were able to quickly adapt a unit for this application. The unit below was machined and tested in a few weeks to get them test samples. This included using their specified high temperature cables. (200ºC 16AWG)

These devices were calibrated to insure the temperature performance in the new housing was consistent. The large contact surface with the engine allowed the limit style snap switch to match the temperatures very closely. These ‘limit’ style switches turned the system on at or below 32 degrees and turned the cold start system off once the temperature increased to 42 degrees F.

Brown University – E and B Experiment (EBEX)

Saturday, November 20th, 2010

Background:  This application note applies to the use of 2570 thermostats as survival heaters on the EBEX astrophysical experiment.

Since EBEX is a balloon-borne experiment which will be flying at low temperatures (typical range: 0 to -40 Celsius), various electronic components need to be maintained above some failure temperature, typically around -25 C. Normal heat control on EBEX is usually accomplished through the use of a negative feedback loop in which a software-controlled relay (typically a solid-state relay) opens or closes as necessary to maintain a particular temperature. The purpose of the thermostats is to act as a backup heater control in the case of the failure of the computerized temperature control system. The thermostats are set to close if the temperature drops below -20 C, allowing current to flow to the ohmic heater attached to the instrument body. We chose the 2570 thermostats because they function in the desired temperature range and can be made with the setpoints we need.

Schematic

2570 Schematic

The computer system contains an on-board DAQ which measures the temperature by reading out the voltage across the 10k resistor in series with the AD590 thermometer, which is attached to the instrument body. When the temperature drops below a programmable setpoint, the computer closes the solid-state relay, heating the instrument through the 50 Ohm resistor. The relay is turned off again once the temperature of the instrument body rises above a second programmable setpoint, which is typically 10 to 15 degrees higher than the turn-on point. During this time, the 2570 thermostat should be open, as the software setpoint is higher than the 2570 setpoint. In the case of failure of the control computer, the solid state relay will be open and the temperature is expected to drop below the 2570 setpoint, causing the thermostat to close and supply current to the 50 Ohm resistor.